Italian Falanghina
Falanghina grape varieties are amongst the oldest cultivated in Italy for winemaking.
In fact, it is believed that Falanghina vines were first brought to Italy
by Greek settlers of the Campi Flegrei region north of Naples as early as the 7th
century B.C. The etymology of the name suggests that this is the case;
“Falanghina” is a direct derivative of the Latin noun “falangae” which refers to
the stakes used to support growing vines. Considering the ancient heritage of
the Falanghina grape strains, it is somewhat remarkable through the centuries
the term has remained literally unchanged, unlike so many other words with
Latinate origins. For instance, the term appears both in agronomic inventories
from the 16th century and in “Le Muse Napolitane” by the poet and philosopher
Basile in the 17th century. Even then, subtle differences in the Falanghina wines
produced in different areas of Italy hinted at the existence of two distinct grape
strains, a supposition that has recently been confirmed by DNA analysis, which
identifies two distinct grapes: Falanghina flegrea from the Campi Flegrie area,
and Falanghina beneventana from the northern area of Italy.
With its distinctive character, Falanghina grape varieties quickly became a
popular choice for wine-making throughout southern Italy, perhaps because of
their affinity for local growing conditions. Falaghina grapes are most amenable
to soil that is light, porous, and rich in minerals – the exact conditions that
emerge in areas prone to volcanic activity. With a high altitude, the kiss of the
Mediterranean sun, and cooling breezes, Falanghina vines thrive in volcanic
areas, producing spherical berries with a yellow tint thickly coated with the
pruine wax that helps them retain moisture and flavour.
Falanghina wines have a pale yellow or golden hue, balanced acidity, and
excellent alcohol content. The flavour, which derives from the grapes
themselves, rather than from finishing in oaken barrels, is evocative of apples,
subtle spices, and a pleasant vanilla finish. Falanghina wine from grapes in
Campi Flegrei has a fresh, mineral-pure taste, while those produced in the
Caserta zone have a somewhat spicier flavour.
In recent times, the flegrea grape strain was almost entirely wiped out by
phylloxera. However, in 1970 the Martusciello family discovered a few ancient
stumps of the Falanghina flegrea grape that had escaped destruction, and began
the time-consuming process of regenerating the strain. It is thanks to their
commitment to bringing the grape back from near extinction that Falanghina
flegrea vineyards are once again thriving. Today, Falanghina flegrea is the most
popular white grape grown in Naples and Caserta, as well as the main grape
used in producing DOC wines such as Falerno del Massico bianco, Galluccio
bianco and Campi Flegrei Falanghina.
on Flickr::
